Scenic Backways not Byways

      When you choose to visit Utah, plan for 2-3 days (or more!) to drive and hike what are known as "Scenic Backways".  We have had opportunity thanks to good friend Laurie D. to have a link to the country's Scenic Byways; but until two days ago, I had never heard of scenic backways.  We traveled the Burr Trail a couple of days ago, but on the way from Lake Powell, we passed the turn off to at least two more of theses scenic backways.  Google "scenic backways" sometime to read more!
     We traveled yesterday from Lake Powell to Green River UT.  Our son and his wife were in Green River for one of their Americorps trips a few years ago.  We had visited Green River once before and since we were so close, we took a short side trip.
     We then headed north to Price UT and fought a pretty nasty wind for about 60 miles.  From Price, we headed northwest on US Highway 6 over the pass (7500 feet) to Spanish Fork, UT.  There we picked up I-15 north headed toward Salt Lake City.
      I merged on to I-15 and then faced about 30 miles of the MOST stressful driving I have ever done in my life!!  Take into consideration that along the west slope of the Wasatch Mountains, the towns have pretty much all melded into one, continuous stretch of humanity and development.  (Just slightly different than what we'd been in over the past week or so!).  And, the interstate was under construction for several miles, so the highway department had created very narrow lanes with concrete barriers on the right.  The traffic volume was very, very heavy and traveling at speeds in excess of 60 MPH.  Lots of semi's and not much room for mistakes.  We were praying for good driving skills and God's favor on this part of journey.  No kidding, I think that hour or so is probably the most demanding driving I've ever done.
     So, we made it to Salt Lake City and I must admit, it is a beautiful city.  I've been blessed to spend a fair amount of time in SLC for work.  Muggy and I are only here for the evening, but we visited the downtown area and Temple Square.  If you don't know this, SLC is the home of the Mormon Church and it is an amazing place to visit.  If you're ever here, I recommend visiting Temple Square and going to the visitor center.  Also, check the auditorium where the Mormon Tabernacle Choir practices and performs.

We are now as far west as we will achieve on this trip.  We are headed north into Montana and then will start back east.  Here's our route so far: http://mapq.st/JTfY5F

Places You've Only Heard Of

     When we get home, be cautioned, if we ask if you'd like to see the pictures from our trip, you may be sorry you asked!!  Quite honestly, everywhere you look out here there is another picture to take.  It is amazing.
     Sorry it's been a few days since updating, but we were OFF the grid on Sunday and into Monday.  We traveled from Monument Valley to Natural Bridges National Monument.  Once again, simply amazing geographic features. There are three bridges in the monument, here is a picture of Kachina Bridge, the youngest of the three.

Kachina Bridge

The Indians believe that there people came to earth through the portals these bridges create.  The bridges are formed by water flowing through the canyon which eventually works its way into and through cracks and thin spots in the walls and eventually, the entire river flows through.  Seems a little hard to believe when I was walking on the stream bed and there wasn't a drop of water to be seen!  But there was definitely greenery.  I've become a fan of cottonwood trees and their hardiness.

     We camped that night, like I said OFF the grid, about 10 miles from the bridges.  There were no services and almost no one else there until another RV pulled in about 7pm.  Lots of space and LOTS of serenity and solitude!.  We looked forward to the night sky as this area is considered one of the best at being free of light pollution.  It did not disappoint.  At about 1:30 am, after the moon had set, we went outside to behold the majesty of the night sky and the Milky Way like we have never seen it before.  It was glorious and we thanked God again for the beauty of His universe.

Sitting Rock

    

The next morning, Muggy and I hiked to the "sitting rock" and shared the morning together and prayed and worshiped! 



  


 We packed up the RV and hitched up the car and headed for Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and Lake Powell; our final destination for the day being Bullfrog RV Park.  We had the distinct pleasure of riding on the Charles Hall Ferry from Halls Crossing to Bullfrog across Lake Powell.

The "rig" riding the ferry

Today we traveled north of Bullfrog about four miles and turned left or north west on to the Burr Trail.  It would be worth your while to read about the Burr Trail.  Driving it provides one with some of the most diverse examples of Utah topography.  We traveled all the way to Boulder UT, traversing the Glen Canyon Recreation Area, the Capitol Reef National Park and the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monumnent.  The switchbacks on the Burr Trail were thrilling and we had lunch at the top.  We have SO many pictures!!!  Literally, everywhere you look here is worth another pictures, hence the warning above about asking to see our pictures when we get home.


      We are both doing exceptionally well and ready to turn north now.  In the next day or so, we will reach Salt Lake City which should be the westernmost travel for this trip.  Then, it's north to Montana and the place where Muggy and I worked way back in the early 70's; Karst Guest Ranch.

Martian Dust Storm!!

Dear Earth,

We are trapped in a Martian Dust Storm! The only thing we can figure is that upon leaving Roswell, we really weren't still on earth!  Apparently, the aliens took us away the night we spent at Roswell and have transported us to either Mars or Tatooine, 'cause this place sure looks a lot like where Luke Skywalker grew up. I think I even saw him in his speeder cruising out by the monuments.  It's amazing though; a lot of this place looks like earth and even the people are similar to those we knew on earth.

     We have been hunkered down here at Gouldings for two days now waiting for the winds to abate.  The red dust blows across the highway like snow in northern Minnesota (or Montana this morning!!).  There are red dunes alongside the road.  I literally had to stop the car at one point in time on the highway during a short drive we took as I could not see for all the dust blowing.

     The winds are to decrease tonight and we will depart here tomorrow.
We will certainly be glad to have the winds subside!

We had opportunity yesterday to take a day trip up to Mexican Hat.  Here's a picture and I'll bet you can't figure out why they call the town Mexican Hat?? 

 We also drove up and down the Moqi Dugway.  1100 feet in three miles through a series of switchbacks.  It's pretty amazing. The picture is taken from near the top looking back down on the road we had just approached the cliffs on and one of the hairpin turns.  Not recommended for the faint of heart or for RVs!








We also visited Goosenecks State Park.  Incredible vista of the San Juan River over 1000 feet below us.

 The magnificence of God's creation leaves me speechless.

UTAH!!

WE MADE IT!!

And it is awe-inspiring!!

Leaving Durango

     We crossed the border from Arizona into Utah yesterday afternoon about 1:30.  We are camped at Goulding's RV Park in Monument Valley.  Goulding's is famous as a place for western movie settings and John Wayne.  The campground is in a canyon between huge walls of red rock that tower over us.  The notion of computer generated imagery as background continues prevalent.  The scenery just seems unreal, other-worldly.
     Our drive yesterday brought us along the Trail of the Ancients to the Four Corners National Monument.  The scenery is breath-taking and SO BIG!!  The vistas stretch on for miles...and miles....and miles.  Huge, like GI-Normous rock outcropping dot the landscape. 
     We stopped briefly in Kayenta, AZ at the Burger King as it has a very nice display and history of the Native American involvement in WWII as "Code-Talkers". 
     We will likely be here a couple of days as winds are forecast to be in the 30-40 mph range, with gusts to 50 mph!!  We do NOT want to be driving the RV in winds like that.
     Here's a link to a map showing our path so far.  http://mapq.st/JBJhOJ
    Blessings to all!!

A Little Bit of Heaven

Highway 550 in NW New Mexico

Wow!  I'm behind!  We left Albuquerque on Monday morning and started northwest toward Durango, CO.  Our intent in Durango is to visit Muggy's brother, Chris and to spend a few days with him.  The travel was very pleasant and there was virtually no wind...yay!!  We are definitely beginning to see different terrain.

Muggy and Chris

We motored into Durango by early afternoon.  It is absolutely stunning to see the terrain change so dramatically when one leaves Bloomfield, NM and travels the 30 or so miles into Durango. 

So, now we've been here for about 2 1/2 days, relaxing and enjoying the beauty of God's creations here in the mountains and the natural hot springs close by Chris' home.  The scenery is so beautiful, it is so visually captivating that it's almost like there's a computer generated image in the background everywhere you look! 

Hermosa Creek

The Animas River and the Red Cliffs

We've met some of the people in Chris' life.  In particular, a 90 year old gentleman by the name of Cliff, nicknamed "Angel" and his wife Rosemary.  We enjoyed a wonderful afternoon with them celebrating her 89th birthday.  Angel is a retired Lt. Col from the Army Air Corps/Air Force, a veteran of WWII, Korea and Vietnam.  Following his retirement from the Air Force he came to the Durango area and worked at Purgatory ski area as the head of the "Bindings Maintenance".  He and his buddies would ski the area all day, helping adjust bindings, giving directions and generally being of assistance to the skiers.

Angel and me

Chris is very active with the local Veteran's Organizations and we took time to visit the Vietnam Memorial in Durango along the river walk.

Now, it's on to Utah.  We may be off the grid for the next couple of days, uncertain whether we will have internet.  We will be in the Kayenta, AZ and Monument Valley, Bullfrog areas of southern Utah.

Annular Eclipse

     Sunday, May 20, 2012 dawned beautifully in Albuquerque.  Muggy and I drove to downtown ALB to the landmark "Frontier" Restaurant to meet up with good friend Matt!  I used to work with him at JSTARS and he's now re-located to ALB and is prospering. It was great seeing him again....and the huevos rancheros was primo!!

Matt and me at the Frontier

Historic Route 66

     After breakfast, Muggy and I set off on a quest to find some eclipse viewing glasses.  We learned that the Balloon Museum was selling 2000 pair beginning at 3pm.  In the meantime, we stopped at several places to see if we could find welding goggles, or something.  Everything along this line in the city of Albuquerque was sold out!
      So, we returned to the museum at 2 and got in line.  The line was already about 100-150 long.  It took until 3:45 before we got to the window, but we got our glasses and then decided to head to the RV and watch the eclipse from there.
     We are staying at Enchanted Trails RV Park  which is on the far west side of ALB and our spot was strategically located on the west side of the park.  I set up my cameras and waited for the eclipse to begin.  It turned out to be quite an event with our neighbors.  Bob and Carol were on top of their RV taking pics, a couple of retired school teachers came by to check out the view with the glasses.  Another neighbor came by and chatted.  We had lots of fun and took a bunch of pics. I'm still sorting through them, but here are a few:

Moon starting to cover

And now a little more..

The Ring of Fire

Moon moving away

We had an incredible time!!

That's One Off the Bucket List!!

     So, what is Albuquerque known for?  Hot Air Ballooning of course!!!  And if you're ever going to take a hot air balloon ride, it only seems logical that one would do that while in Albuquerque right?!?
     So, we awoke this morning at 4:30 am giving us time to have a quick cup of coffee and then head out to the rendezvous point with PRIVATE BALLOON FLIGHTS (website is privateballoonflights.com)  We arrived a few minutes early for the 5:30 rendezvous time and we met up with Pam.  She led us over to a local park where the rest of the team was unloading "the Purple Twist", to be our balloon for the morning. There were only six of us going on this flight (plus Captain Bentley).  That's why we chose Private Balloon Flights as they offer a couples only option or with only six passengers.  Obviously, it's a little cheaper going with others in your basket, but that choice is up to you and the team at PBF is most accommodating!!
     Muggy and I helped the team inflate the balloon by holding it open at the bottom while two fans first blew cool air to inflate the balloon; and then, once the balloon was unfurled,

Captain Bentley started the fires!  Before we knew it, the balloon was floating and ready for us to climb on board.

We all climbed aboard and before we even realized it, we were airborne; effortlessly and silently.

The view and the experience were amazing!  We enjoyed a beautiful morning floating gently between 500 and 1500 feet above the ground.

Enjoying the ride!

Looking up inside the balloon

 We were airborne for about an hour and then Capt Bentley set us down gently in the field.  We helped fold and pack the balloon.

Captain Bentley and Pam, the owners of Private Balloon Flights!!

 We highly recommend calling Private Balloon Flights at  1-888-550-2677 if you are ever in Albuquerque and wanting a fantastic experience!!

You're Doing It Peter!!

     Our amazement and wonder at God's creation, provision and grace abounds!!  We departed Roswell, NM this morning about 9.  We headed due west on US 380 and we started to gain altitude immediately, ultimately climbing to 7000 feet on our journey to Carrizozo, NM and the Valley of Fire Recreation Area.  The Valley of Fire is the second youngest lava flow in the continental U.S., occurring approximately 5000 years ago, from vents, not from a volcano, although there are three ancient volcanoes in the area.  Here's a picture of the lava flow.

 The lava flow is really big, being about 44 miles long by about 2 to 5 miles wide and from 45 to 160 feet in thickness.

On the way to the lava flow, we almost ran over this little feller trying to cross the highway.  I moved over just in time not to squash him and then we saw at least two more snakes that were not so fortunate. Muggy decided that between the snakes and the tarantulas, she has no desire to live in New Mexico.


     On the way to the lava flow too, we drove through Lincoln County, NM.  The town there is considered to be the most authentic looking western town left in the U.S.  It is also the location where the Lincoln County War was conducted.  This was basically a feud between existing merchants and newcomers to the area.  Billy the Kid was actually hired by the merchant involved and it was here that he killed Sheriff Pat Garrett.  Billy was in jail here and it was from this jail he made his famous escape.  Look it up on the web as it's pretty interesting and has actually been fictionalized in a couple of movies.
     We arrived in Albuquerque about 4:30 this afternoon and we're scheduled to be here for three days.  Sunday we will witness the total eclipse of the sun, which is the reason we determined to be here in Albuquerque at this time.
       Thanks for reading!  And blessings to all!

Toto, Something Tells Me We're Not in Kansas Anymore

Here's a picture specifically for my brother Steve....

ROSWELL!!

We made a decision last evening that proved to be based in excellence!  We were going to travel NW today toward Clovis, NM, but we have NEVER heard anything nice about Clovis, so we decided that since we are so close, let's go to Roswell!! 

     It was a challenging drive as we fought a 20 mile an hour cross wind most of the way today.  But, it was well worth the trip!  Roswell is a fascinating town.  After miles and miles and miles and miles of nothing, you descend into this beautiful valley and there's Roswell, the Dairy Capitol of New Mexicon (I didn't know that!) and, of course, the home to the UFO Museum stemming from the 1947 incident just outside of the town.  This town knows how to treat visitors well. If you ever come here (and I highly recommend a visit), go to the visitor's center.  They will very professionally introduce you to all this town has to offer and it's a lot!  Did you know there was a POW camp in Roswell during WWII?  Over 4600 POWs (mostly German) were here during the war.  I've included a picture of some of the stonework they did during their incarceration. 

An iron cross made of stone fashioned by German POWs.

And, we've found a beautiful RV park right on the edge of town.  We made it to the Art Museum, the POW memorial and the UFO museum today.....and we were almost abducted!!

Pioneer Hardiness

As we rolled the 250 miles or so that we traveled yesterday across the plains of Texas my mind focused on thoughts of the pioneers and the hardiness and determination they must have had to do what they did.  This part of this great country is barren and remote.  We can drive for miles and not see another car.  Very few houses are visible from the highway (we are on US 70).  The power lines are ubiquitous. 

We were determined to get to Roaring Springs, TX.  That was quite a drive for us and it was in the heat of the day; it was at least 93 degrees.  We’ve resolved to not, unless absolutely necessary, drive during the heat of the day.  However, even as we drove and thought how hot it is and that we were tired and ready for supper and rest; what was it like when you could expect to make 2-3 miles per day?  Traveling for months on end; not knowing what’s ahead, or who you may encounter?  And, wondering about a good place to rest for the night.  We arrived at a 600 acre RV park and found a beautiful spot down below the bluffs, next to a small stream.  I think it would have been a perfect spot for weary travelers, but they certainly had more to do than hook up the hose to the water spigot and plug in the electricity so we could turn on the a/c!!

Out secluded parking spot with the bluffs in the background.

NINE DOLLARS!!!

      We are spending a second night here at Lake Murray State Park, just south of Ardmore, OK and for great reasons!
      Let me begin by explaining the title of tonight's blog.  We were in Ardmore today, waiting for the Honda to be repaired (more later) and I was examining the tires on the RV.  A couple of nights ago we met Randall at the park on Lake Texoma.  He and his wife are full-time RV'ers and have been for 11 years now.  They also teach seminars to new RV'ers and Randall gave us some great tips.  One of those tips was to MAKE SURE I regularly check my tires.  So, I called HUDSON TIRE Service here in Ardmore and asked if I could bring the rig in and they said "Sure!".  So, the fellow checked pressure on all the tires and swapped out our spare for one of the tires showing signs of cracking.  I left the rig with them while we went to lunch with Owen (more about him later!).  Upon returning I went to pay the bill and the fellow says, "That'll be $9!  You could have knocked me over with a feather!  I actually felt like I wanted to argue with him and pay more, but he just says, "we like to treat people fairly".  And that sums up everyone we've met in this town.  Hospitality, friendliness and fairness.
     So, Owen met us at the tire repair shop and gave us a tour of Ardmore, including a great BBQ lunch at Smokin' Joe's BBQ.  Great ribs!!  Owen,his Dad and his brother Tim are very active and engaged in revitalizing downtown Ardmore.  They've got buildings and businesses and apartments.  Plus, they're just super people!  I am certain we have begun a long lasting friendship with Owen.

Owen and Muggy outside Smokin' Joes BBQ, Ardmore OK

          Plus, we received word today that my niece does NOT have cancer and we are thanking God for His continual blessings!!
      Be safe everyone!

Ardmore, OK

     If you are ever passing by Ardmore, OK, you simply must stop and pay a visit in this wonderful community.  We had to take our Honda Fit into the dealership for some repairs.  While there, we met Owen who was "over the top" friendly and recommended that we enjoy the downtown area of Ardmore while we waited.  So, he called his brother who owns buildings downtown and a parking lot downtown and we parked our RV there while walking about.
     Then, we were invited to try PRIME, the Burger Dive and I've got to tell you, it was one of the best burgers I've ever had!!  This place needs to be on "Drive-ins, Diners and Dives".  The melted cheese on the burgers is amazing!  And their onion rings are killer!! 
     Plus, we had the pleasure of meeting Brandi, our server while having lunch!. Rumor has it that Jimmy Buffett was in town today too!!  And may have frequented PRIME today too!

Great Burgers and Onion Rings

Is this Jimmy???

This IS Brandi!!

Hot Springs, Arkansas

        I treated Muggy to an extra special Mother's Day treat one day early which Erik and Luke and Rachael are paying for, they just don't know it yet!!  Muggy and I went into Ashdown early to buy some vegetables at the Farmer's Market.  The town was celebrating WhistleStop Days.  Unfortunately, it was raining quite hard, so there certainly weren't many folks out.  Everyone we talked to said they were glad to have the rain.
     Muggy and I then headed north for a couple of hours to Hot Springs, AR.  We enjoyed a leisurely drive through the Arkansas countryside and stopped at a flea market to buy some treasures.  Upon arrival in Hot Springs we began a saga of some trouble with the Honda Fit we are towing.  More on this later.
     I had made reservations for us at the Quapaw Bathhouse on Bathhouse Row in downtown Hot Springs.  We were treated royally by the staff, particularly Desiree and Debi, our personal attendants.  We enjoyed a private, detoxifying bath followed by 20 minutes in the steam cave.  The water used in the bathhouses comes out of the ground at 140 degrees and is full of minerals.  I've posted some key pictures from our day below. 
     First, Rita and Cassie at the Bubba-licious Grill on Central Ave., across the street from the bathhouses.  The burgers are great and we highly recommend the Classic Dog with the sweet, red-pepper relish.

Me in front of one of the National Park signs.  We purchased National Park pass for this trip, but you do NOT need one to visit Hot Springs.  Immediately behind me here is the Promenade; a beautiful tiled and terraced area behind the bathhouses and a beautiful walk. 

Muggy's picture is taken on the Promenade:

Muggy relaxing in the rockers on the porch of the Quapaw Bathhouse:

Ashdown, AR

     We are "camped" at Millwood Landing, about six miles east of Ashdown, AR.  The quotes around the word camped are 'cause we're not sure this is really camping.  We've got hot and cold running water, a kitchen, a/c, comfortable chairs, directv and just about all the comforts of home.  We are definitely enjoying our ourselves.
     We took a drive into Ashdown yesterday and visited a couple of antique stores.  Some very nice stuff and a lot of stuff that fits into the category of "why would I pay money for that?"  We also visited the Millwood Dam on the Red River. 
     As I watched the water pouring over the spillway I was impressed with the power of the water and I realized that for two days in a row I have taken notice of water in a meaningful way.  The day before I stood on the banks of the Mississippi and watched the thousands of gallons of water per second flowing by.  I've made a mental note to myself to be thinking and continuing to take note of life lessons to be learned from this.
     We fished a little bit last night in the lake on the property here.  Fortunately, we didn't catch anything!

Mississippi, Texas and Arkansas

       We boondocked last night in the WalMart parking lot in Columbus, MS.  Boondocking is when you are totally self-sufficient.  That is, you've got no plug in for electricity (you use your generator), you have no connection to water (hopefully your tanks are at least 1/4 full), and you're storing all the nasty stuff in the grey and black water tanks.
       One of the challenges we've always had while traveling is that I (Ken) tend to wake up really early and want to get on the road.  Muggy on the other hand, likes to sleep in.  Well, this RV'ing stuff lends itself quite satisfactorily to this situation.  This morning I awoke at 4:00am.  I made coffee and had a bit of breakfast and by 4:30 was ready to go.  So, with Muggy ensconced in bed, we headed out following US Highway 82 across Mississippi.  US 82 begins in Brunswick GA and ends in Las Cruces, NM.  We could have started on US82 in Georgia, but for this trip we joined up with the highway in Tuscaloosa, AL.  Here's a link with some information about US 82:
http://www.usends.com/80-89/082/082.html
       A really cool unexpected diversion today was experienced just west of Greenville, MS when we turned off the highway to visit Warfield Point Park, (url:   http://www.warfieldpointpark.com/admission.html ).  We rested in the cool shade along the MIGHTY Mississippi.  When you see the river at this point in its journey, you can understand why it's called mighty!!  As we enjoyed the quiet sounds of the river and the many red-winged blackbirds in the trees, we witnessed a very specific purpose this river serves.

Several barges went by both up and down the river.  It's one thing to say you know there are barges on the Mississippi; it's quite another thing to witness the barge traffic.  The barges are huge and one can only imagine the power of the boats pushing them.

      Just after leaving Warfield Point, we crossed the Mississippi on yet another wonder: the US 82 bridge over the Mississippi.  Check out this link for information about this bridge which is the "longest cable stayed bridge span on the Mississippi.
http://www.greenvillebridge.com/index.htm

We continued on across Arkansas.  Did you know that Arkansas is the largest producer of rice in the world?  We didn't either!!  And it's really a beautiful state...well, they've all been beautiful so far!  We pulled into Texarkana and joined up with I-30 for a couple of miles.  I couldn't figure out why the exits were numbered #1 and then #223 until I realized we left Arkansas and entered Texas.  Then, we turned north to our destination for the next couple of days, a place called Millwood Landing.